Gilocav Dabadebis Dghe!

As my birthday approached, I had my expectations set set low- maybe a cake at school and a shared supra in the evening with guests mainly there for my host sister Pikria, who's exactly one year older than me. I in no way expected the grandiose celebration that was in store for me.

The day started with a couple calls from my old host family wishing me well and birthday kisses on the cheek from all- my host mother, the teachers and the 9th grade boys. I got "Happy Birthday" from the 1st and 3rd graders in English. I was ushered into the 2nd grade where they sang "Happy Birthday" in Georgian standing in a line, holding hands. Upon completion they rushed at me and I was surrounded by crowd of 7 year-old hugs! After my 4th class I was told to go home, change into something nicer and come back at 1pm.

                                        

When I walked upstairs I found most of the school and half the village sitting in the main room in front of a make-shift stage. There were balloons in the corners, leaves on the floor and the curtains were decorated with paper hearts on which were written "Chris", "USA", "Pennsylvania" and "Happy Birthday" in Georgian. I was asked to sit at a small table to the side where my friends Tim, Andy and Inga were already waiting. On the table: 2 bottles of champagne, glasses and a huge cake decorated as an American flag, with candles and big sparklers. 

Then the performances started- "Happy Birthday" by all; a number of girls sang songs in Georgian with the music teacher on piano; a boy and girl danced a traditional dance in traditional dress; one of the 1st grade girls and one of the 2nd grade boys (probably the two tiniest kids in the school) sang and danced dressed as super-cute mice; a number of students recited Georgian poetry in my honor; my co-teacher spoke some moving words in English that brought be to tears; and I was presented with a beautiful book. It was an overwhelming, touching, special and joyous occasion. I didn't feel worthy of so much, but it was wonderful to see everybody so happy.

From there we moved into the teachers' room where a long table was set up decorated with baskets of pomegranates, persimmons, pears and grapes. We ate khinkali, the national meat dumplings, and achma khachapuri, one of variations on the cheese pie. There was about 5 gallons of red wine and a bottle of house made walnut-flavored grape liquor for the endless toasts. We drank for God, for me, for my parents, for my brothers and sisters, for the day of St Michael, for our countries, for our community and for many others I'm sure. It was easily the most special and memorable birthday celebration of my life!

A new post soon!

It was my intention to write a post about this past week. With both birthday and Thanksgiving celebrations it was truly fantastic. However I've already spent too much time in the unheated computer room, and I'm rapidly losing feeling in my fingers! Celebratory updates coming soon....

(while we did eat turkey, it didn't quite look like this- picture courtesy of google images)

The End of a Short Autumn

A couple weeks ago while walking outside Sighnaghi, Tim and I were reflecting on how nice it is to be in a country where the passage of time can be measured by the selection of fruit in the market. It's nice not to have  the globalized North American supermarkets where blueberries can be had in January. It's difficult to remember all the time markers, because once the season is over, they're nowhere to be found. But here we left the peaches and nectarines long ago, along with the sweet, red flesh of perfectly ripe watermelons. In September we welcomed figs, pears and the first table grapes. It was grapes in earnest come October followed by persimmons, apples and pomegranates.

When I woke up on the morning of November 7th, it was clear the snow was early. Walking along the road  unconventional Christmas trees were decorated with globes of persimmon orange and pomegranate red. Sinister Saparavi grapes still hung on some vines like the bearded heads of wise men, prematurely crowned with white. It's strange to miss the bleakness of late November when all the leaves have fallen, the naked silhouettes of trees greet early nights, and the earth lies frozen, waiting for its winter blanket.

The screen of my laptop gave up on Georgia. There's nothing but a black screen when I turn it on. But this has allowed me realize just how much time I was spending sitting alone at my desk listening to music and challenging my computer to endless games of Hearts. Unfortunately I've discovered shows in English broadcast on a Turkish TV station that we get. Sometimes I have to work to pull myself out of the vegetative state that TV can put  me in so easily. But the absence of my laptop has allowed me to make faster progress through my Georgian grammar book, which I've almost finished. It also makes time for reading- I got my hands on a copy of "One Hundred Years of Solitude", which has been exciting to read again. I'm almost through that as well! And finally without the distraction of an always-ready Hearts opponent I've been able to take more time to catalogue my thoughts and take stock of my current situation in reflections like this.

I'm still happy to be here, still enjoying the work in the school. For everything I teach I learn at least as much. My co-teacher, Tamriko, and I continue to developed a comfortable relationship with an understanding of where our respective strengths lie and how they can best be used in the classroom. But the undercurrent still persists for me of wanting more, both in terms of my work and socially. Teaching all of 16 hours a week leaves a whole lot of free time, and I would be happier with full days. It would be great to find a way to apply my ag econ studies to a project, or even just to pick up some tutoring to fill out my schedule. Socially, I have found whole lot of acquaintances here, a good handful of friends, but few that I feel really close to. While it can be frustrating waiting for these relationships to develop, it's given me a new appreciation for those already in my life that are truly good friends.

But soon enough I'll be flying back to the states for a month among those friends and family, and in the meantime, while I'll keep my eyes out for ways to channel the undercurrents that remain, I intend to enjoy myself thoroughly and take advantage of all the opportunities that are to be had, for they are abundant!